We have been working with landholders to protect and restore their riparian (land adjoining streams, creeks, wetlands) for 20+ years, by controlling stock, addressing erosion and planting tubestock key activities.  This Tubestock Guide has been developed to answer the concerns and questions we commonly get asked by landholders, including:

• How can I assess the condition of my riparian area?
• What can I do to help my waterway get better, and what does better look like?
• The site seems so big, where do I start and how can I start?
• Which plants where?
• How do I plant, maintain and care for my tubestock?
• Some of my plants are dying, what am I doing wrong?
• I have lost my plants to drought and flood, is restoration worth it?

These are just some of the questions we answer in this guide, which has been designed as a resource you can come back to depending on the stage you are at in your restoration project.

Please note: This guide has been specifically written with the Southern Tablelands in NSW in mind, and although some principles can be broadly applied, we recommend contacting local organisations for advice specific to your area.

How can I tell the condition of my waterway?

To plant or not to plant? When to encourage natural regeneration

I am ready to plant – what next?

A note on direct seeding

How do I order tubestock?

When it comes to ordering your tubestock, its a good idea to ask around your neighbours, Local Land Services or organisations like ours, as to which nurseries supply good quality tubestock.  We recommend choosing a nursery local to your area (often Landcare groups have a nursery), that has plants grown in the same conditions as your property.  Tubestock needs to be pre-ordered, generally at least six months in advance so the nursery can ensure it has the species and size of plants you need.  At the same time as purchasing your tubestock you need to order guards and stakes.  There are online suppliers, but your local nursery will probably also have them available.  Don’t be stingy on the number of stakes as they are what protect the plants against animals like goats who are persistent and eat everything, leaf, stem, the lot!  The guards provide vital protection so a minimum of two strong stakes are needed.  We often also have a couple of bamboo stakes interwoven through the guard for added support.

Which plants do I choose?

What you need to consider:

Choosing the plant species for your area is a little like establishing a garden – you need to consider:

• what you want to achieve for your site;
• the conditions and climate of your site, and
• your personal preference (aesthetics, level of maintenance etc.).

Generally, for environmental projects, the plant species you select are based on intact vegetation communities in the local region and (if applicable) the existing vegetation that you are connecting to.  For example:

• For sites that are predominantly River Red Gum riparian communities, you would select River Red Gums and other species common to that community.
• A site with a well-drained gully would require species suited to the drier conditions and may resemble more of a woodland than a riparian zone.
• For sites that were naturally treeless such as wetlands and swampy meadows, grasses, reeds and sedges (with no trees or shrubs) will be most appropriate.
• In forested and woodland areas, shrubs, and understory species, are important because, like grasses, they help filter runoff and improve water quality, whilst providing excellent habitat for small birds.

As a basic principle, planting species that are native to your region is a must, as they are suited to the local conditions, have a lower likelihood of becoming ‘weedy’ and provide habitat for local wildlife.  Climate change does throw an extra variable into the mix, and we are finding that in areas becoming drier or wetter, new species are being added in to recommended mixes as they are better able to cope with these conditions.

When choosing your plant species:

When considering plant species, it is important that you choose a range of different plant species (diversity) with a range of different roles (function) This means a range of trees, shrubs, and grasses appropriate to the site to ensure a healthy riparian ecosystem (see section ‘To plant or not to plant? When to consider natural regeneration’ for information on vegetation layers).

Non-native plant species are inadvisable for riparian restoration programs because they have a high risk of becoming invasive (with no natural predators), commonly form a monoculture (only species that grows) which outcompete native plants (this is particularly true for groundcover and small shrubs),and they don’t provide the ecological benefits necessary for native ecosystem function. This is particularly the case with many species of Willow, Black Alder, Box Elder, Elms and others. If non-native plants are being considered for specific reasons, obtain advice on which species to plant to minimise adverse effects. Deciduous trees dropping their leaves can also be detrimental to water quality, creating an imbalance of nutrients and increasing bacterial loads over autumn and winter.

Suggested article:
What is the problem with willows?

Suggested guide:
Managing box elder around waterways

Consider the characteristics of your plants and their potential home:

It is important to consider the characteristics of any plant species you want to plant, as each species has particular preferences and will do better in some conditions than others. Some like dry soil, while others don’t mind getting wet. Some like the sun, some prefer shade. Some prefer the cold, others will struggle. These considerations influence what species you plant, and the timing of plantings.

You also need to think about how big each plant is going to get (including height and width). This will influence where you plant the tubestock, and how close together to prevent overcrowding and potential shading issues. Remember to check for powerlines, underground cables and other infrastructure as part of the planning process.

It is also important to identify problematic areas within the site such as rocky outcrops, salt scalds, areas with no top-soil and contaminated areas, and avoid planting these areas until conditions become more suitable. In these areas it may be necessary to undertake other forms of remediation such as erosion control, promotion of groundcover through grazing management, addition of woody debris and organic matter, burning, aeration and/or other site preparation techniques (expanded on below).

Plant species and climate change

With a changing climate, there may be exceptions to what plants are suitable to use, whereby plants from further afield – outside of the area you wish to plant, may need to be considered. It is advisable to obtain site specific advice if you think this may apply to your site. A useful organisation to contact is Yass Area Network of Landcare Group, who are working on Climate Ready Vegetation in NSW.

How many plants do I need and where do I put them?

How big should my planting site be?

How do I prepare my site?

Preparing your site before planting is crucial in helping your tubestock survive. Site preparation for planting involves site cultivation (ripping, hole digging, aeration) and spraying (or applying some other method) to reduce plant competition for nutrients and moisture. The level of site preparation will depend on site conditions, but is usually required to some degree.

Timing of site preparation

Try to prepare your site at least one season before you plant your tubestock, this is so the site can be weed free and able to support plant growth.  If this is not possible, a month beforehand is the very minimum, and you may need to modify your efforts to focus on hole digging and vegetation removal around where each tubestock is to be planted. Weed control is an ongoing task as part of aftercare, particularly, if it is not effectively carried out in advance.  In some cases riplines or spot cultivated sites are over sprayed after the soil is prepared, but this depends on the level of groundcover – if biomass is high, it can interfere with soil preparation machinery.

Weed Control

Weed control is essential as weeds can compete with your tubestock for space, water, light and nutrients. ‘Weeds’ in this context is defined as any unwanted plants that may compete with newly planted tubestock (e.g. grasses).  If you have invasive weeds (such as Love Grass, Serrated Tussock, Woody weeds and others), you need to develop a strategy to manage these at a property scale and over a number of years.   Tubestock planting can play a role in helping to manage these weeds, as when they grow they can shade out some invasive species.  Until the time they are big enought to do this, however, weed management is essential to ensure they are not overrun.

Chemical options

The best time to undertake weed control depends on your groundcover species.  For example, for a spring planting it is advisable to do a weed spray the previous spring, then a spray in autumn, followed by another spray in spring just prior to planting. This spray regimen is for grasses sich as Phalaris or the invasive weeds mentioned above.  Phalaris deserves special mention because it contains root substances that are allelopathic to other plants, that is, they give off compounds that favour their own growth and establishment.  Other less invasive grasses can be sprayed 3-4 weeks before you plant.

Glyphosate is recommended to knock down competition for tubestock planting as it remains in the soil for a short amount of time (generally less than a week) and it is the only chemical registered for use along waterways.  In some cases other chemicals like residual herbicides may be needed to manage invasive weeds.  Residual herbicides remain in the ground for longer periods of time (sometimes more than a year depending on conditions) and this must be factored into your planting program if it is likely to affect new planting. Always check recommendations on the label for herbicide use.

Non-chemical options

For sites where the use of herbicide is not appropriate (e.g. organic operations, sensitive plants) options may include mowing, brush cutting, hand weeding, crash grazing, and / or biological control. These are successful to varying degrees, but as none of these methods outright kill plants, a plan is required to manage their regrowth. For example, grazing or mowing can also reduce biomass, however, it should be noted that this will also reduce the ability of grasses to take up chemical so they are likely to return  once grazing pressure is removed.

Few more tips

When undertaking weed control for site preparation, avoid disturbing the soil, in particular leaving large areas without vegetation cover, as this leaves the soil open to recolonisation by other weeds, particularly annual weeds which love bare ground. Similarly, large areas of bare ground can also increase the risk of erosion.  If you have a large revegetation area to prepare, spray only where you need to. In treelines, for example, spray strips of 1.5m wide (leaving groundcover between rows of trees) or spot spray holes with 1m diameter for individual plants.

Soil Preparation

Soil cultivation can help increase water penetration and improve root development and plant establishment. It is important to check prior to commencing work that there are no natural and cultural heritage sites being damaged and/or overhead and underground cables you may disturb. Dial before you dig!

For small areas (or areas that are sensitive to large machinery):

• Dig holes using a hand-held auger or by using tools such as mattocks and shovels. Each hole should be the size of a basketball (20cm diameter) to allow a well or dish to be established around the plant to catch water. Grassy matter should be cleared around the site prior to digging.

For larger areas:

• Soil cultivation can be undertaken by ripping (using a tractor) or spot cultivation (using an excavator, bob cat, tractor or similar). Lines or spots should be cultivated to a depth of 40-60cm.
• If ripping is the preferred method, it should be undertaken many months before planting to ensure soil has the chance to settle and reduce air pockets. If this cannot be achieved in advance, riplines can be driven along with a tractor or ute to expediate soil settling. care must be taken to ensure air pockets are removed when planting, and a thorough watering can help to achieve this.
• Ensure the centre of ripines and holes are a minimum of 4m apart so that plants do not end up being planting too close together.

Image source: Southern Rivers Catchment Management Authority

Protecting your site

Having done all this work its important to protect your site from grazing domestic stock with fencing. Individual wire plant guards can also be used to protect trees from stock, but these are expensive and only suited to scattered trees and shrubs.  Similarly, if there is a high grazing burden from native wildlife such as kangaroos and wallabies, or feral animals such as goats, deer and rabbits, you may need to supplement your guards with more stakes or use a different type of fencing.  Standard tree guards will reduce grazing pressure by small animals but will do little to dissuade a determined wombat or wallaby. Plant guards are discussed in the next section.

Other factors to consider

Other things to consider are soil acidity (pH) soil moisture levels, soil structure, salinity, pliability and nutrient levels.  There are tools that you can use to help improve the condition of your site, such as increasing the soil pH by adding lime or reducing pH using gypsum (lower pH).  You can also improve soil nutrients, structure and moisture retention by adding organic matter like compost. It is recommended that professional advice be obtained if there are major issues with your soil conditions.

How do I plant tubestock?

After planting, what then?

After planting, tubestock requires active monitoring, care and attention to ensure they have the best possible chance of establishing.  The more effort you put into site protection and preparation, the lower the maintenance burden, but you will still need to do ongoing weed control, plant guard maintenance and in some cases replacement plantings. A result of 80% survival or greater is what you need to aim for.

Monitoring

• It’s a good idea to set up photo monitoring points so that you can see change over time.  Include photos close to the planting site, as well as some further away to record overall changes. It is not uncommon for trees to grow and block the view!
• Also take notes on what plants are planted and their relative success. This will help to inform future planting activities and replacement plants if required.

Watering

• Watering plants in when they are planted is critical. If this is undertaken and climatic conditions are favourable, ongoing water should not be required. This can be further maximized by ensuring that species appropriate to the climate and site conditions are selected.  If drought conditions prevail, follow up watering may be required. Deep less-frequent watering is more effective than more-frequent light watering. Aim to provide a minimum of 3 litres per plant, and more if soil moisture is low.
• Watering is a labour-intensive time-consuming activity that is often under-estimated. If drought conditions are predicted for upcoming seasons, planting may be postponed.

Weed maintenance

• Weeds can easily outcompete young tubestock, and weed maintenance should be undertaken for 12-18 months after planting. This may involve hand weeding around plants, or spraying by placing a bucket over the plant and spraying around it. Generally if site preparation is carried out effectively, the need for spraying should be minimal, however it depends on climatic conditions, with wetter years requiring more maintenance.

What does success look like?

This is a hard question to answer, as what success looks like will vary across sites. It is more important to understand that there will be a time lag between when you plant and when the full benefits of revegetation will be realised.  Know that your efforts are never in vain, and that you are investing in revegetation, not only for yourself, but for future generations.  As the photos below show there is something about restoring riparian areas that makes you smile!

References and Further Reading

Why is riparian restoration important? 

• Information on benefits of riparian vegetation and importance of restoration
• Information on the benefits of riparian vegetation during floods
• Australian native shrubs: Delivering benefits to livestock, soil, plants and people
• Benefits of riparian vegetation for livestock: Livestock weight gains and water quality
• Research on the benefits riparian restoration can give 10 years after planting

Existing guides on tubestock planting and riparian restoration:

• Rehabilitation field guide
• Tree planting methodology
• South East Local Land Services Revegetation Guide
• A guide for establishing native vegetation in Victoria

How can I tell the condition of my waterway?

• More images to help guide your stream condition checklist assessment
• In-depth and technical stream condition checklist developed in Victoria

To plant or not to plant? When to encourage natural regeneration: 

• Information on the principles of natural regeneration
• Information on how to improve a site to encourage natural regeneration, and principles of riparian rehabilitation
• Information on vegetation layers
• Website for vegetation layer image

Funding to assist restoration of existing vegetation communities 

• Biodiversity conservation trust
• Land for Wildlife

I am ready to plant. What next?

• Revegetation techniques
• Tubestock planting benefits: Working on the big picture – Catherine Ross

Note on direct seeding:

• How to look after seeds for direct seeding
• What to expect from direct seeding
• Comparison between tubestock planting and direct seeding
• Direct seeding fact sheet

What plants do I choose? 

• Species list for Southern tablelands
• Information on how native grasses respond to flooding
• What species to choose
• Important of a range of plant species with different functions
• Yass Area Network of Landcare group are working to select plant species that will persist under a changing climate
• How to select plant species: Resource – Upper Snowy Planting Guide
• Information on soil pH which may be a constraint for successful establishment of tubestock
• Managing box elder around waterways
• What is the problem with willows?
• Managing blackberries around waterwayss
• Managing serrated tussock in winter

How many plants do I need and where do I put them? 

• Information on plant spacing: Resource – Upper Snowy Planting Guide
• Guide for revegetation, which includes different recommendations for plant spacing depending on the purpose of the plantings
• Information on plant spacing – recommending looking at natural densities

How big should my planting site be? 

• Good practices for riparian rehabilitation, including riparian corridor and buffer widths
• Planting design and densities
• Advantages and disadvantages of different planting designs

When should I plant? 

• When to plant

How do I prepare my site? 

• Watering and planting tips
• Weed control and other tips of planting
• Site preparation
• Tips for planting
• Timing for site preparation

How do I plant tubestock? 

• Components to planting
• Planting hints
• How to plant tubestock
• Comprehensive tips on planting
• Planting, fertilizing and initial watering

After planting, what then?

• Maintenance
• Ongoing maintenance, watering, monitoring and evaluation

What does success look like?

• Stream condition checklist
• What does success look like